Yes, there were a lot of pretty au naturale looks sent down the runways in Milan, but haven’t we had enough of that already? From the always overstated Prada to a “pared down” Versace (with half a set of falsies), brace yourselves, the maximalists have arrived. And for minimalists, maybe you can walk away with some hints for this upcoming Halloween.
Dolce & Gabbana
Always a go to for classic Sicilian drama, the D&G boys are in full effect as per usual. As always, it’s a perfect rendition of Romanticism.
Face - A bright blush all over, heavy highlights all over, this sounds like a bad sunburn with aloe vera on top. Luckily this flush is much easier to attain than soaking up cancer. Flawless skin is everything, nothing too heavy, try Marc Jacobs’ Genius Gel Supercharged Foundation for a seriously perfect finish. Chanel’s Joues Contraste powder blush offers a buildable finish, so no matter how sun kissed or sun ravaged you decide to look, you have it in one compact.
Sweep it along the hairline, cheeks, brows and chin – but make sure to blend, or you might look like you had your blush explode in your face. NARS’s duo eyeshadow in Isolde and Alhambra can be used to imitate the glow-y, lightly sculpted lids, using the lightest rosey champagne in the inner corners for lift. Dior’s Art Pen in Brown is ideal for a perfect micro flick instead of I-did-my-cat-eye-in-the-car-and-drove-over-a-field-of-speed-bumps scribbles. Top it off with YSL’s Rouge Volupte Shine in Pink in Confidence or Nude in Private for a full face of unnaturally natural rose.
Hair - When at Dolce & Gabbana, adorn your head in leaves, flowers, and golden coins. Right? For this look, you’ll need volume, a half inch curling iron, dry shampoo, and all the lawn clippings you can find. After your hair has been blasted with volume and dried, curl the hair surrounding your face, and save the rest from any heat, because why do it all when you don’t have to? Lazy girls unite! Blast those curls with dry shampoo, finger comb, and clip em back for the beginning of a seemingly intricate updo. Braid the rest of the hair, pretty much however you want, and pin it in a sloppy bun. Voila! You’re done, skip the bedazzles if you like, or let your imagination flow and turn your head into a Romantic masterpiece.
Get the Look:
Green, grey and pale, you’d think I’m describing a zombie. In this case, it’s beautifully out there eyeshadow at Giorgio Armani. It’s dramatic, it’s unconventional and it’s a little bit ridiculous. Jade green shadow that extends to the temples and grazes the cheek bones? Okay maybe a lotta bit. But who said we’re not allowed to have fun?
Face - A green shadow is hard to find, you don’t want to look like a green space alien, right? Laura Mercier’s Sateen Eye Colour in St Germain has just enough gold in it to make you not look like you got in a bar fight. The tiniest swipe of Urban Decay 24/7 Glide On Eye Pencil in Uzi on the outer corners of the eyes and skip the mascara to complete this fairy-esque eye. Since all the focus is on the eyes, the face is kept pale and matte, possibly leaving more room for you to look like the living dead.
Smashbox’s Camera Ready BB Cream is great for evening out skin and has the widest color range I’ve found to date. Pale girls, there’s a BB from all brands for you, lucky you. Mixing the BB cream with a luminous foundation or primer will keep this look from being zombie. Don’t pile up on the BB though, you’ll look mega cakey. To top off this look, a soft lip stain, like YSL’s Glossy Stain in the Rebel Nude range will keep the life in you. Nude Provocateur looks like a shade of skin you see at the morgue, but don’t knock it till ya try it, it gives a subtle light mauve tint with a purple sheen, it’s been my go to for months.
Hair - This hair is very boyish, to counteract the ultra femme eyes. Bobby pins are your best friend if you don’t want to take the plunge and chop off your length a la a recent Coco Rocha. It’s definitely a commitment, one that I don’t think I could take but maybe you can! Plungers beware, if you’re a peroxide blonde you may end up looking like Miley, which depending on the person you ask is either a good or bad thing. To faux it, pull your hair into a high pony tail, right in the center of your crown. Blast your pony with dry shampoo to get a cool, matte texture. Curl the lengths of your hair for texture, and pin it until you have your desired swept look. Make sure to pull some pieces of hair to cover your hair band for a totally new you, minus the awkward growing out stage.
Get the Look:
Prada is always about statements, this season it’s all about becoming animated. Miuccia recruited Mexican graffiti artists to create the portraits printed on the garments, which led to making the girls look like vivid illustrations as the beauty inspiration.
Face - As always, Pat McGrath (the great) serves up a raw unexpected face. Graffiti served as literal inspiration for the look. A raw pared down face, moisturized cheeks, bleached brows and tiny dabs of concealer on imperfections and lips mixed with some balm makes for a solid base – like concrete. An airbrush gun loaded with muted, unconventional pastel eyeshadow colors in blue, green, purple, orange, and yellow scribbled all over the lids to imitate spray paint. In a way, it sculpted the eyes in a new, interesting, and maybe not attainable eye. But I will say it’s sure a looker. If you are lucky/awesome/Pat McGrath enough to have an airbrush gun then I’d say go for it! It’s the perfect unexpected look, but the shy beware. For a similar, more wearable look with traditional powder eyeshadow, use a wet crease brush to define the eye with a semi-translucent smokey cat eye.
Hair - Josh Wood, stylist for the show, left traditional techniques of highlighting and balayage and vivid, single toned hair was inspired by illustrations. By no means is this box color, it is luminous without the help of old school highlights. But for you, highlights or not, a clear glaze is always beneficial if you want that lush glossy, totally unattainable, shampoo commercial shine. If you’re getting a little exhausted with your look and want to try something new, I think this is a fresh bet. It’s unnaturally natural hair, hyper perfection takes form. I know I want it, every day of the week including Halloween.
Get the Look:
Gucci proposed maximal-minimal sexiness in the beauty department at the fall show. And by minimal I mean most of your boyfriends wouldn’t be able to figure out why it’s taking so long because it’s blended to literal perfection. A modern glossy multi-toned smoky eye with a strong arch and sculpted skin elevated the classic brown smoky eye into a total staple. Paired with pushed back waves, the contrast of soft hair and a strong face add a new look to it.
Face - This obviously calls for a palette of lustrous browns. Doppers, bronzes, and golden browns were all applied to the lid with a glossy finish, courtesy of the one and only Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream. A fantastic palette that effortlessly completes this look is YSL’s Ombres 5 Lumieres in Tawny #3. Run the shimmery chocolate brown mixed with the golden shadow from your lower lash line up and around through your crease for a color by numbers set up, leaving out the inner corners of your eyes. Depending on how bold you want to take this look into reality, you can either use the peach or orange shadows in this palette. The shimmery orange is totally sunny and summery, not to mention absolutely transitional into fall.
Tap the shade right in the middle of your lid, between the chocolate in your crease and your upper lash line and line your inner corners with the golden shade. Top off your eye with a brown mascara with a brush that provides natural looking length, like Lancome’s Defincils in Brown and a dab of 8 Hour cream for a completely updated, Gucci and Tom Ford approved eye. Using a foundation a couple shades darker than your skin tone offers a natural texture while lending you the most believable cheek bones of your life.
Hair - Soft, voluminous, brushed back, shiny and gently wavy hair was in the air. Starting with wet hair, apply a ball of Oribe Grandoise Hair Plumping Mousse from hairline to crown and blow dry upwards with a Mason Pearson Brush. Okay, some people cannot justify paying so much for a brush, but let me explain why they’re worth every cent; the rubber cushion collapses at a soft touch making it gentle and way less likely to rip out your hair like lesser brushes do, you can brush wet or dry – no need for the detangler version, the combination of top quality boar smooths frizz and distributes your scalps’ natural sebum down to your ends, leaving you with strong thick hair – not to mention they last centuries.
I wasn’t a believer, but after my stylist used it on me I was in awe, I didn’t realize that my bleached blonde hair could be so soft and touchable, and I had blissfully thought that my knock off was equally as sufficient. It’s not. Holding a 1″ curling iron horizontally from midlength to ends as you curl creates an incredibly soft wave that Luigi Murenu does so well. Apply Kerastase Elixir Ultime from root to ends to a glossy healthy shine, mirroring the glossy brown smokey eye. Spray Kevin Murphy Shimmer Shine for a mega reflective finish to complete the look.
Get the Look:
Next Up – Paris!
By Pauline Thai